Russian mafia, Aussie Gronks and everyone’s an influencer with an iPhone and poke bowl for breakfast on Insta. Bali, Indonesia’s crown jewel of tourism, is grappling with an escalating crisis of overtourism and environmental degradation, as unchecked development and a surge in foreign visitors threaten the island’s cultural and natural heritage. On 4 January 2025, volunteers and participants were photographed clearing plastic waste and garbage from the shores of Kedonganan Beach in Badung Regency, a stark reminder of the mounting challenges facing the island. As monsoon rains exacerbate the deluge of trash on its beaches, and controversial developments like the now-shuttered PARQ Ubud compound spotlight regulatory failures, calls are growing for consistent law enforcement and sustainable policies to protect Bali’s future.
The scale of the problem is staggering. Data from Statistics Indonesia (BPS) reveals that 5.2 million foreign visitors arrived in Bali between January and October last year, accounting for 45 percent of the country’s total foreign arrivals. This influx, while a boon for the economy, has intensified issues such as flooding, waste accumulation, and the erosion of agricultural land. The closure of PARQ Ubud, a sprawling 65,000-square-metre hotel complex in Gianyar Regency, exemplifies the clash between development and preservation. Authorities, including the Bali Police and Public Order Agency (Satpol PP), raided the property last month, alleging it was built on protected rice fields designated as National Sustainable Agricultural Land (LP2B). The compound, dubbed the “Russian Village” by locals due to its perceived clientele, featured luxury amenities and long-term stays for foreign tourists, raising questions about enforcement disparities and cultural impacts.
Environmental activists have sounded the alarm over Bali’s waste crisis, with monsoon rains in January bringing what one described as “the worst” waves of plastic pollution to tourist-favoured beaches. A 2019 study estimated that Bali generates 1.6 million tonnes of trash annually, including 303,000 tonnes of plastic waste. Alarmingly, only 48 percent of this waste is managed responsibly through recycling or landfill, with 33,000 tonnes of plastic leaking into waterways each year. Images of volunteers painstakingly clearing debris from Kedonganan Beach underscore the human toll of this systemic failure, as the island struggles to balance its allure as a global destination with the reality of crumbling infrastructure. 
A Complex Web of Overtourism
Beyond the visible scars of waste and overdevelopment, scholars argue that overtourism in Bali represents a deeper, more entrenched issue—a system prioritising economic growth through mass tourism at the expense of local communities and ecosystems. This “visitor economy” often displaces traditional economic activities, leading to practices such as rent expropriation, labour exploitation, and the extraction of natural resources. In southern Bali, where the tourism boom is most pronounced, the strain on infrastructure has resulted in frequent flooding and other environmental hazards, further alienating residents who feel sidelined by policies that cater to foreign visitors.
The case of PARQ Ubud has become a lightning rod for these tensions. Before its closure, the compound evolved into a multifunctional hub with apartment-style rooms, restaurants, a concert hall, and an 80-metre swimming pool—the largest in Ubud. Its development on protected agricultural land not only violated zoning laws but also symbolised a broader trend of prioritising profit over preservation. Local authorities have been accused of reactive, and at times discriminatory, enforcement, with some critics pointing to the targeting of foreign-owned or foreign-frequented properties while similar violations by local developers go unchecked. The arrest of a German national linked to PARQ Ubud during the raid has further fuelled debates about fairness in regulatory action.
Calls for Sustainable Solutions
Tourism associations in Bali have repeatedly raised concerns over the myriad problems plaguing the island, from environmental degradation to cultural erosion. While acknowledging the economic benefits of tourism—particularly in a post-COVID recovery phase—many argue that the focus should shift from merely managing visitor numbers to critiquing the policies enabling unsustainable growth. “Indonesians are welcoming people, but the authorities need to step up and ensure we are a lawful and sustainable host,” one local advocate stated, reflecting a sentiment shared by many.
The complexity of Bali’s tourism sector cannot be overstated. Outside factors, such as global travel trends and the island’s post-pandemic reopening, have contributed to the surge in arrivals. However, the root of the problem lies largely within—a patchwork of local government policies that often prioritise short-term economic gains over long-term sustainability. If reforms are to succeed, they must address this systemic imbalance, potentially through stricter zoning laws, enhanced waste management infrastructure, and community-driven tourism models that empower local stakeholders.
The Environmental Cost of Neglect
Bali’s environmental crisis is not a new phenomenon, but its scale has reached unprecedented levels. The 2019 waste study serves as a grim benchmark, illustrating how little progress has been made in managing the island’s trash. With over half of Bali’s waste unaccounted for in recycling or landfill systems, the leakage of plastic into waterways poses a direct threat to marine ecosystems and the very beaches that draw millions of visitors each year. The January cleanup at Kedonganan Beach, while a commendable community effort, is a drop in the ocean compared to the systemic changes needed to curb this tide of pollution.
If current trends continue, the environmental toll could irreparably damage Bali’s appeal as a tourist destination. Flooding, already a persistent issue in the south, may worsen as development encroaches on natural drainage systems and green spaces. The loss of agricultural land, as seen in the PARQ Ubud case, also threatens food security and the cultural significance of rice farming—a cornerstone of Balinese identity. Without intervention, the island risks becoming a cautionary tale of tourism’s double-edged sword.
Clear Path Forward
The challenges facing Bali are daunting, but not insurmountable. A multi-pronged approach, combining stricter enforcement of development regulations with investment in sustainable infrastructure, could chart a new course. For instance, expanding recycling facilities and ensuring that collected waste reaches designated landfills or processing centres would directly address the plastic leakage problem. Similarly, revising zoning laws to protect agricultural and natural areas from commercial exploitation could preserve the island’s ecological and cultural heritage.
Equally important is the need for equitable policy-making. The perception of discriminatory enforcement, as highlighted by the PARQ Ubud closure, undermines public trust in authorities. A transparent, consistent approach to regulation—applied equally to local and foreign developers—would signal a commitment to fairness. Community involvement in tourism planning could also ensure that economic benefits are distributed more evenly, reducing the displacement and exploitation often associated with overtourism. Bali could look to regional examples of sustainable tourism for inspiration. Destinations in Southeast Asia, such as certain areas of Thailand and Vietnam, have experimented with visitor caps, eco-tourism initiatives, and cultural preservation programmes. While no model is directly replicable, adapting such strategies to Bali’s unique context may offer a blueprint for balancing growth with sustainability.
Bali stands at a crossroads. The island’s allure as a tropical paradise is undeniable, but the cost of unchecked tourism and development is becoming increasingly apparent—from plastic-choked beaches to the loss of sacred agricultural land. The closure of PARQ Ubud and the ongoing waste crisis are symptoms of a deeper malaise, one that requires bold, systemic reform to address. As volunteers continue to clear garbage from Kedonganan Beach and activists call for change, the onus is on Bali’s authorities to prioritise sustainability over short-term profit. Only through consistent law enforcement, community engagement, and a reimagining of tourism policies can the island hope to preserve its beauty and heritage for generations to come.
