Indonesia’s Food and Drug Monitoring Agency (BPOM) has intensified its battle against illegal cosmetics, releasing a list of 91 brands found to be uncertified and potentially hazardous. The crackdown, following a nationwide inspection from 10 to 18 February, uncovered over 205,000 illegal products worth an estimated Rp 31.7 billion (US$1.9 million), a staggering tenfold increase from last year’s seizures. With most of these products circulating through online marketplaces and promoted on social media platforms like TikTok, the agency is now drafting regulations to curb misleading advertising and protect consumers from harmful substances.

The illegal cosmetics were predominantly discovered in major urban centres, including Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Bogor in West Java, Palembang in South Sumatra, and Makassar in South Sulawesi. According to BPOM head Taruna Ikrar, the surge in online sales has transformed the distribution landscape, with many consumers drawn to products endorsed by influencers or viral social media campaigns. “Many choose cosmetics sold online, particularly those reviewed by influencers and ones that went viral on social media,” Taruna said during a press briefing on 21 February.

A Growing Threat to Consumer Safety

The scale of the problem is alarming. The BPOM identified over 4,000 variants of illegal cosmetics, many of which lack certification and may contain dangerous ingredients such as mercury and hydroquinone. Mercury, a toxic heavy metal, is linked to severe health risks, including skin cancer with prolonged exposure. Hydroquinone, often used in skin-lightening products, can cause hyperpigmentation, leading to dark patches on the skin. These health hazards underscore the urgency of the agency’s efforts to remove uncertified products from the market.

The rise of online marketplaces has made it easier for unscrupulous distributors to reach vast audiences, often bypassing traditional regulatory oversight. Some sellers have resorted to deceptive tactics, such as falsifying distribution permit numbers or mislabelling prescription-based skincare as over-the-counter products. Among the brands listed by BPOM are popular names frequently reviewed on TikTok, including Mokeru colouring shampoo, Maycheer makeup sets, and Gecomo eyelashes and mascara. Other brands like Ribeskin, Lameila, and Tanako have also gained traction online, with some review videos amassing up to 470,000 views.

This digital proliferation poses a significant challenge for regulators. Unlike physical stores, where inspections can target specific locations, online platforms operate in a borderless space, often obscuring the origins of products. Many of the seized cosmetics were imported from countries such as China, South Korea, India, and Thailand, adding a layer of complexity to enforcement efforts. A January raid by BPOM, for instance, confiscated Rp 8.9 billion worth of illegal cosmetics across Java, highlighting the persistent and widespread nature of the issue.

The influence of social media in driving sales of illegal cosmetics cannot be overstated. Platforms like TikTok have become powerful marketing tools, where influencers—often unaware of a product’s legal status—promote items to millions of followers. This trend has not gone unnoticed by BPOM, which is now collaborating with the Communications and Digital Ministry, the Trade Ministry, and the Industry Ministry to draft a regulation on cosmetics advertising. The agency has also scheduled public consultations with brand owners and industry associations to refine the policy.

“The BPOM aims to protect consumers,” Taruna emphasised. “We will not unfairly target influencers, but those who promote illegal products will face legal consequences under this regulation.” While the specifics of the forthcoming policy remain unclear, it signals a broader intent to hold digital promoters accountable for endorsing uncertified or harmful goods.

The agency’s approach balances enforcement with education. While four cases from the recent raids—in Bogor, Makassar, Manado in North Sulawesi, and Rejang Lebong in Bengkulu—have been flagged for potential criminal investigation, the majority of offending brands face administrative sanctions. These include bans on production and distribution, as well as orders to destroy remaining stock. Under Indonesia’s 2023 Health Law, individuals or entities found guilty of producing or distributing hazardous cosmetics could face up to 12 years in prison and fines of Rp 5 billion, a stern deterrent aimed at curbing the trade.

Indonesia’s struggle with illegal cosmetics reflects a broader global trend. Over the past decade, the beauty industry has seen exponential growth, fuelled by rising demand for affordable skincare and makeup products. In South East Asia, where beauty standards often emphasise fair skin and youthful appearance, the market for such goods is particularly lucrative. However, this demand has also created fertile ground for counterfeit and uncertified products, which are often cheaper than their regulated counterparts but come with significant health risks.

Economically, the trade in illegal cosmetics represents a substantial loss to legitimate businesses and government revenue. The Rp 31.7 billion worth of seized goods this year alone indicates a thriving black market that undermines certified manufacturers and distributors. For small and medium enterprises in Indonesia’s beauty sector, competing with low-cost, unregulated imports is a persistent challenge, stifling innovation and growth in a sector that could otherwise contribute significantly to the national economy.

Socially, the issue touches on deeper concerns about consumer education and digital literacy. Many Indonesians, particularly younger demographics, rely on social media for product recommendations, often without scrutinising the legitimacy of the items or the credentials of the reviewers. This vulnerability is compounded by the allure of quick beauty solutions, which can override caution about potential health risks. Public awareness campaigns, alongside stricter regulations, will be crucial in shifting consumer behaviour and encouraging safer purchasing decisions.

A Regional and Global Challenge

Indonesia is not alone in grappling with the influx of illegal cosmetics. Across South East Asia, countries like Thailand and Vietnam have reported similar issues, with unregulated products often crossing borders through informal trade networks. The global nature of the beauty industry, coupled with the anonymity of online sales, makes international cooperation essential. BPOM’s efforts could serve as a model for regional collaboration, potentially involving joint raids, shared databases of banned products, and harmonised advertising regulations.

For now, the agency’s focus remains on domestic enforcement and policy reform. The proposed regulation on cosmetics advertising, if implemented effectively, could set a precedent for how governments address the intersection of digital commerce and public health. However, its success will depend on robust enforcement mechanisms and the willingness of online platforms to cooperate in curbing the promotion of illegal goods.

Looking Ahead: Balancing Innovation and Safety

As Indonesia navigates the challenges of a booming beauty market, the balance between innovation and consumer safety remains delicate. The allure of online shopping and social media marketing is unlikely to wane, meaning regulators must adapt to a rapidly evolving landscape. Strengthening digital oversight, raising public awareness, and fostering ethical practices among influencers and brands are all critical steps in safeguarding consumers from the risks of illegal cosmetics.

For many Indonesians, the promise of beauty should not come at the cost of health. BPOM’s recent crackdown is a significant step forward, but sustained efforts—both at home and in collaboration with regional partners—will be necessary to dismantle the networks behind this illicit trade. As Taruna Ikrar and his team push for stricter controls, the hope is that consumers will soon have greater confidence in the products they choose, whether purchased in a store or with the click of a button.