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Offbeat Bistro: Rediscovering Filipino Cuisine with a Modern Twist

In the heart of Manila’s bustling Ayala Triangle Gardens, a new culinary venture is redefining the way Filipinos and visitors alike experience the country’s rich food heritage. Offbeat Bistro, the brainchild of chef and cookbook author Angelo Comsti and co-owner Don Baldosano, offers a fresh take on Filipino cuisine, blending nostalgia with innovation in a setting that’s as visually striking as the dishes it serves.

A Culinary Journey Through Memory and Experimentation

Offbeat Bistro isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of Filipino flavors that many may have forgotten or never even encountered. The menu, comprising 29 signature dishes and drinks, is steeped in research, drawing from regional traditions and personal memories to create an experience that is both educational and experimental. As Comsti notes, younger generations often lack familiarity with some of the ingredients and dishes featured, such as pimiento. “Actually, a lot of people told me that they’re not familiar with many of these things, especially the young ones” he says. “Pero once they taste it, [they say] I’ve tasted something like this before.”

The bistro’s approach is deeply regional, often presenting dishes that don’t immediately appear Filipino but reveal their roots through flavor. A standout is the bibingka, traditionally a sweet rice cake enjoyed as a dessert. At Offbeat Bistro, it transforms into a savory delight, topped with shrimp salad, smoked queso de bola, and a salted egg sauce. “Surprisingly, a lot of people get, well, surprised with bibingka” Comsti admits. “They’re used to eating it for dessert, so to have it as a savory dish… it’s a welcome surprise. They end up liking it.”

From Sunday Gatherings to a Shared Table

The origins of Offbeat Bistro are as personal as the dishes themselves. What began as casual Sunday gatherings at Baldosano’s home, filled with food and drinks, evolved into a shared vision to bring their culinary creations to a wider audience. “The way it started was we just hang out in Don’s place every Sunday over food and drinks and then we said to each other, ‘Why not turn it into something like a profitable habit?’” Comsti recalls with a laugh. “At least we’re including more people [into our get-togethers] and letting other people try our food.”

This sense of community permeates the bistro’s casual atmosphere, a deliberate contrast to Baldosano’s more formal tasting menus elsewhere. Yet, the relaxed vibe doesn’t compromise on creativity. Dishes like the coconutty kulawo in lumpia form, served with a gata dipping sauce, or the monghe—a hearty mix of minced pork, cheese, and egg jam on a toyomansi cream bed—showcase a playful yet respectful nod to Filipino culinary traditions.

A Feast for the Senses

Beyond the food, Offbeat Bistro’s design is a visual treat, reflecting Filipino cultural elements in a modern context. The luminous interiors draw inspiration from the pirate red takas of Paete in Laguna, with undulating waves aiding acoustics and mirrored ceiling blocks creating optical illusions. Bright blue wooden utensils, reminiscent of those found in Filipino households, adorn the walls, grounding the space in tradition despite its contemporary flair.

The menu itself is a tapestry of regional influences. From the Palawan pompano pinangat wrapped in hoja santos leaves from Bacolod, offering an herbal twist on the Bicolano classic, to the Mindanao-inspired fish piaparan with its dry grated coconut and spice purée, every dish tells a story. Even desserts and cocktails evoke nostalgia, with offerings like an orange creamsicle, a gin-based “icy gems” drink inspired by childhood biscuits, and mamon tres leches infused with coconut and patis caramel.

Pushing Boundaries, One Bite at a Time

Offbeat Bistro doesn’t shy away from experimentation. A two-toned ginataang pansit, made with pancit bato and fresh burnt coconut noodles, strikes a balance between a creamy salad and a springy vongole. Meanwhile, the lechon de carajay, a deep-fried pork belly dish paired with a mushroom-like sauce, harks back to recipes found in old Filipino cookbooks, as Comsti explains. These bold reinterpretations challenge diners to rethink what casual Filipino fare can be.

Looking ahead, Comsti and Baldosano envision Offbeat Bistro as more than just a dining spot. Plans are in place to eventually introduce tasting menus, transforming the bistro into a true culinary destination. For now, though, each visit offers a glimpse into the depth and diversity of Filipino cuisine, inviting diners to explore beyond the familiar. As Manila’s food scene continues to evolve, Offbeat Bistro stands as a testament to the power of memory and innovation, serving up dishes that linger long after the last bite.

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