In the heart of George Town, Malaysia, the aroma of glutinous rice, pork belly, and five-spice powder wafts through the home of Quah Eng Hwa as the Dragon Boat Festival approaches. For over two decades, the 75-year-old has meticulously crafted bak chang—traditional rice dumplings also known as chang in Hokkien and zong zi in Mandarin—ensuring that each pyramid-shaped parcel wrapped in bamboo leaves bursts with the flavors of heritage. Despite rising ingredient costs, Quah remains steadfast in her commitment to preserving the recipe passed down through generations.
A Festival Staple Rooted in History
The Dragon Boat Festival, also known as Duan Wu Festival, is celebrated on the fifth day of the fifth month of the Chinese lunar calendar, falling on May 31 in 2025. Observed across Chinese communities worldwide, it commemorates the ancient poet Qu Yuan and is marked by dragon boat races, cultural rituals, and the sharing of bak chang. These dumplings, filled with a savory mix of glutinous rice, pork belly, dried mushrooms, salted egg yolk, chestnut, and dried shrimp, embody a culinary tradition that binds families and communities together. 
For Quah, the festival is more than a cultural event; it is a personal mission to honor her family’s legacy. “I’ve been making bak chang for more than 20 years and cannot imagine reducing the portion of ingredients as that would affect the taste” she says. “The recipe comes from my mother. It’s been passed down the family for generations, and I don’t want to break the tradition.”
A Labor of Love
Quah’s dedication to authenticity means no shortcuts, even as the price of ingredients like pork belly and dried mushrooms climbs. Each dumpling is a labor-intensive creation, requiring hours of preparation to season the fillings with soy sauce, sugar, and five-spice powder before wrapping them in bamboo leaves. The result is a rich, balanced flavor that her customers—mostly relatives and friends—cherish. Though not made for commercial sale, word-of-mouth has turned her kitchen into a local treasure, with demand often exceeding a thousand pieces in past years.
This year, however, Quah and her daughter Jolene Chee, 45, scaled back, accepting orders for about 400 pieces without social media promotion. “It’s quite time-consuming and labor-intensive” Quah admits. “But hearing the good feedback from everyone makes it all worthwhile.” The family offers two variations: the classic pork belly version and a chicken option for those preferring leaner protein. Often, Chee’s children join in, turning the process into a multi-generational bonding experience at their George Town residence.
A Taste That Endures
What sets Quah’s bak chang apart, according to her loyal customers, is the traditional taste achieved through precise ingredient ratios. “Most of those who order say ours is one of the better bak changs available because of the traditional taste, and that keeps them coming back for more every year” she explains. “For example, without the proper amount of pork belly, you won’t get the rich flavor.”
The journey from a household treat to a sought-after delicacy was unexpected for Quah. “In the beginning, I only made it for the household and shared some extras with neighbors” she recalls. “They liked it and word spread; more people wanted to try it, and things just took off from there.” Today, her dumplings are a small but cherished part of George Town’s cultural fabric during the festival season.
Keeping Heritage Alive
As the Dragon Boat Festival unfolds, Quah’s story reflects the resilience of cultural traditions in the face of modern challenges. Her unwavering commitment to quality over cost, and family over convenience, ensures that each bite of her bak chang carries the weight of history. In George Town, where heritage and modernity often intersect, this multi-generational effort stands as a reminder of the power of food to connect past and present, one dumpling at a time.
As families gather to celebrate with dragon boat races and shared meals, Quah’s kitchen remains a quiet cornerstone of tradition, proving that some flavors are worth preserving, no matter the effort.
