In the heart of George Town, Penang, the aroma of charcoal-baked biscuits fills the air as the Tan sisters gather for their cherished Chinese New Year tradition. For over five decades, this close-knit family has come together annually to bake festive treats, a ritual that not only celebrates the lunar new year but also strengthens their unbreakable bond. This year, five of the six sisters—Ai Imm, Ai Cheng, Ai Geok, Ai Suan, and Ai Poh—reunited at their coffeeshop on Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah to craft kuih kapit, also known as love letters, and kuih ros, or beehive crackers, in a labour of love that evokes nostalgia and community.
The sisters, ranging in age from 58 to 68, began their preparations a month before Chinese New Year, dedicating weeks to perfecting their craft. Using traditional metal moulds and a charcoal stove, they meticulously prepared over 1,000 jars of kuih kapit and around 30 jars of kuih ros. For at least six hours each day, their coffeeshop buzzes with laughter and lively conversation, transforming the space into a hub of familial warmth amidst the clatter of baking tools. “This has always been more than just baking,” said Ai Imm, 58, the youngest of the group present this year. “It’s a time for us to reconnect and reminisce.” Her eyes lit up as she recalled their humble beginnings over 40 years ago, when the sisters baked in a cramped corridor in Gat Lebuh Macallum, producing about 300 jars of kuih kapit annually alongside their parents and relatives. “It was such a communal experience back then,” she added. The family moved their operation to the current coffeeshop in 2012, a more spacious venue that allowed them to increase production while maintaining the same high standards passed down from their grandparents.
Kuih kapit, delicate wafer biscuits rolled into cylindrical shapes, and kuih ros, intricate fried pastries resembling miniature beehives, are iconic treats during Chinese New Year in Malaysia. They symbolise love, prosperity, and togetherness, often shared with family and friends as gifts. Affectionately dubbed the “jie jie mei mei” (big and little sisters) biscuits by those who know them, the Tan sisters’ creations have become a beloved tradition in their community. The treats are sold and distributed to loved ones throughout the festive season, spreading joy with every bite. 
The sisters’ dedication to preserving this family recipe reflects a broader cultural practice among Malaysia’s Chinese diaspora, where food plays a central role in maintaining heritage and fostering connections. In Penang, a state known for its rich multicultural tapestry and vibrant food scene, such traditions are especially poignant. The act of baking together serves as a bridge across generations, linking the past with the present in a city where modernity often overshadows age-old customs.
While one sister, Ai Hoon, 60, was unable to join this year’s gathering, the others carried on with the same enthusiasm that has defined their ritual for decades. From the end of December through the early weeks of the new year, their coffeeshop becomes a testament to resilience and sisterhood. Each jar of biscuits represents not just hours of meticulous work but also a shared history of laughter, challenges, and unwavering support.
For global readers unfamiliar with Chinese New Year customs in Malaysia, the festival—also known as Lunar New Year—is one of the most significant cultural events for the country’s Chinese community, marked by family reunions, temple visits, and the exchange of gifts. Food, in particular, holds symbolic importance, with specific dishes and snacks believed to bring luck and prosperity. The Tan sisters’ annual baking marathon is a microcosm of these values, embodying the spirit of togetherness that defines the celebration.
As the sisters fold and fry their way through another festive season, their story offers a heartwarming glimpse into the enduring power of family traditions. In a world of rapid change, their commitment to preserving the past through the simple act of baking serves as a reminder of what truly matters: connection, memory, and love.
