In the heart of Manila, the air grows heavy with reverence as Holy Week unfolds, a period of profound spiritual significance for millions of Filipino Catholics. Each year, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, the capital transforms into a hub of religious observance, blending centuries-old traditions with personal reflections. This week-long journey, culminating in the joyous celebration of Easter, offers a glimpse into the deep-rooted faith that shapes Filipino culture, drawing families and communities together in shared rituals and quiet contemplation.
A Season of Devotion
For many in Manila, Holy Week begins with Palm Sunday, marking Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem. At churches across the city, including the historic Manila Cathedral, worshippers gather with palm fronds to be blessed with holy water, a symbolic act of renewal. The scene is often lively yet solemn, with children’s voices mingling with the priest’s prayers, creating an atmosphere of communal faith. For some, the day evokes vivid imagery from popular culture—tunes from musicals like “Jesus Christ Superstar” echoing in their minds as a modern lens on ancient stories. 
As the week progresses, each day carries its own weight and tradition. Spy Wednesday, named for Judas Iscariot’s betrayal, offers a moment for confession and reflection on personal failings. In some households, children participate in the “Spy Wednesday Silver Hunt,” searching for 30 hidden coins—a playful yet poignant reminder of the price paid for betrayal. These small rituals weave together family bonding and spiritual lessons, grounding even the youngest in the gravity of the season.
Maundy Thursday and the Weight of Tradition
Maundy Thursday ushers in the non-working holidays, a time when Manila’s streets and churches buzz with activity. At the Manila Cathedral, Cardinal Advincula presides over the Chrism Mass, blessing sacred oils used in sacraments throughout the year. Across the city, the ceremonial washing of feet—a reenactment of Jesus’ act of humility at the Last Supper—is performed during evening masses, a powerful visual of service and love.
One of the most iconic traditions is the Alay Lakad, a pilgrimage to Antipolo Cathedral that draws millions. Last year, an estimated 7.4 million people participated, walking through the night as an act of devotion. For many families, the day also includes late-night vigils at the altar of repose, a quiet meditation on the Last Supper and Jesus’ agony in Gethsemane. These hours, often stretching until midnight, test patience but leave a lasting impression of sacrifice and stillness.
Good Friday: A Day of Silence
Good Friday stands as the most somber day of Holy Week, a time when even the bustling energy of Manila seems to pause. No masses are held, and the Eucharist is absent, emphasizing the void left by Christ’s death. Families observe strict silence, with children traditionally barred from play or music until after 3 p.m., the hour of Jesus’ passing. This enforced quiet, whether at home or by the beach, fosters introspection, often tinged with a childhood fear of offending the sacred.
The day is marked by the Visita Iglesia, a pilgrimage to seven churches between Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. Under the sweltering Philippine sun, devotees move from one church to another, praying at each stop. The Stations of the Cross, whether performed in church or as a family activity at home, further anchor the day in reflection. These practices, both physically and emotionally demanding, underscore the sacrificial tone of the day.
Easter Sunday: A Celebration of Renewal
After the somber waiting of Black Saturday—a day of limbo as Jesus’ body lay in the tomb—Easter Sunday bursts forth with joy. Churches across Manila overflow with families in their Sunday best, the once-covered statues unveiled in a symbol of resurrection. The mood is celebratory, with chocolate egg hunts for children and, for some adults, a well-earned glass of champagne after the Lenten fast.
Born on Easter, many Filipinos feel a personal connection to the day, blending family milestones with spiritual renewal. Whether attending mass in the city or while on holiday out of town, the day radiates hope—a reminder that Lent’s end marks not just an endpoint but a new beginning.
Stories and Rituals as Anchors of Faith
Beyond the formal observances, Holy Week in Manila is also a time of personal and cultural storytelling. Families often turn to films with religious themes, from classics like “The Reluctant Saint” to lesser-known gems like “The Courage to Love,” which explores faith amidst racial tensions in 19th-century New Orleans. These stories offer a grounding force, prompting reflection on virtues like humility and resilience, even for those who may have faltered in their Lenten sacrifices.
Ultimately, Holy Week in Manila is less about perfection and more about persistence. Whether through the silence of Good Friday, the vigils of Maundy Thursday, or the simple act of watching a sacred film with family, the season invites a return to faith. As the city moves through this sacred time, the rituals and stories serve as reminders that holiness can manifest in many forms—sometimes in resistance, sometimes in history, and often in the quiet moments shared with loved ones.
